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  • Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire

    Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire

    Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire
    October 21, 2014-February 1, 2015
    The Metropolitan Museum of Art
    Anna Wintour Costume Center

    2. Evening Dress, ca. 1861 Black moiré silk, black jet, black lace Lent by Roy Langford (C.I.L.37.1a) Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin L. Willis
    Evening Dress, ca. 1861 Black moiré silk, black jet, black lace
    Lent by Roy Langford
    (C.I.L.37.1a)
    Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin L. Willis

    As a native New Yorker who’s DNA has been imprinted with the “adoration of black clothes” gene, this upcoming exhibition targets my love of fashion in one of my favorite colors (I know it’s not a color) !

    Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire, The Costume Institute’s first fall exhibition in seven years, will be on view in The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Anna Wintour Costume Center from October 21, 2014 through February 1, 2015. The exhibition will explore the aesthetic development and cultural implications of mourning fashions of the 19th and early 20th centuries.

    Mourning Dress, 1902-1904 Black silk crape, black chiffon, black taffeta The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of The New York Historical Society, 1979 (1979.346.93b, c) Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin L. Willis
    Mourning Dress, 1902-1904
    Black silk crape, black chiffon, black taffeta
    The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of The New York Historical Society, 1979
    (1979.346.93b, c)
    Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin L. Willis

    Approximately 30 ensembles, many of which are being exhibited for the first time, will reveal the impact of high-fashion standards on the sartorial dictates of bereavement rituals as they evolved over a century.

     Evening Dress, 1902 Worn by Queen Alexandra (British, born Denmark, 1844–1925) Black silk tulle, mauve silk chiffon, purple sequins The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Miss Irene Lewisohn, 1937 (C.I. 37.44.2a, b) Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin L. Willis
    Evening Dress, 1902
    Worn by Queen Alexandra (British, born Denmark, 1844–1925)
    Black silk tulle, mauve silk chiffon, purple sequins
    The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Miss Irene Lewisohn, 1937
    (C.I. 37.44.2a, b)
    Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin L. Willis

    “The predominantly black palette of mourning dramatizes the evolution of period silhouettes and the increasing absorption of fashion ideals into this most codified of etiquettes,” said Harold Koda, Curator in Charge of The Costume Institute, who is curating the exhibition with Jessica Regan, Assistant Curator. “The veiled widow could elicit sympathy as well as predatory male advances. As a woman of sexual experience without marital constraints, she was often imagined as a potential threat to the social order.”

    Mourning Dress (Detail), 1902-1904 Black silk crape, black chiffon, black taffeta The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of The New York Historical Society, 1979; (1979.346.93b, c) Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin L. Willis
    Mourning Dress (Detail), 1902-1904
    Black silk crape, black chiffon, black taffeta
    The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of The New York Historical Society, 1979; (1979.346.93b, c)
    Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin L. Willis

    Exhibition Overview
    The thematic exhibition will be organized chronologically and feature mourning dress from 1815 to 1915, primarily from The Costume Institute’s collection. The calendar of bereavement’s evolution and cultural implications will be illuminated through women’s clothing and accessories, showing the progression of appropriate fabrics from mourning crape to corded silks, and the later introduction of color with shades of gray and mauve.

    Henriette Favre (French) Evening Dress, 1902 Worn by Queen Alexandra (British, born Denmark, 1844–1925) Mauve silk tulle, sequins The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Miss Irene Lewisohn, 1937 (C.I. 37.44.1) Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin L. Willis
    Henriette Favre (French)
    Evening Dress, 1902
    Worn by Queen Alexandra (British, born Denmark, 1844–1925)
    Mauve silk tulle, sequins
    The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Miss Irene Lewisohn, 1937
    (C.I. 37.44.1)
    Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin L. Willis

    “Elaborate standards of mourning set by royalty spread across class lines via fashion magazines,” said Ms. Regan, “and the prescribed clothing was readily available for purchase through mourning ‘warehouses’ that proliferated in European and American cities by mid-century.”

    The Anna Wintour Costume Center’s Carl and Iris Barrel Apfel Gallery will orient visitors to the exhibition with fashion plates, jewelry, and accessories. The main Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch Gallery will illustrate the evolution of mourning wear through high fashion silhouettes and will include mourning gowns worn by Queen Victoria and Queen Alexandra. Examples of restrained simplicity will be shown alongside those with ostentatious ornamentation. The predominantly black clothes will be set off within a stark white space and amplified with historic photographs and daguerreotypes.

    The “Black Ascot,” 1910 Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Getty Images
    The “Black Ascot,” 1910
    Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Getty Images

    The Museum’s website, www.metmuseum.org/deathbecomesher, will feature information on the exhibition and related programs.

    You can follow on Facebook.com/metmuseum, Instagram.com/metmuseum, and Twitter.com/metmuseum.

    To join the conversation about the exhibition use #DeathBecomesHer on Instagram and Twitter.

     

  • PFW SS15 Highlights: Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Saint Laurent

    PFW SS15 Highlights: Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Saint Laurent

     

    Taking place in the new phenomenal Frank Gehry designed home of the Fondation Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière presented a Louis Vuitton SS15 collection just as modern and forward-thinking as it’s surroundings.

    Valentino SS15

    Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took inspiration from the Grand Tour and the result was a Valentino SS15 collection was full of ethereal and dream-like creations.

    Saint Laurent SS15

    The Saint Laurent SS15 collection continued Heidi Slimane’s journey of reshaping this grand house into his image.

  • PFW SS15 Highlights: Agnes B

    PFW SS15 Highlights: Agnes B

    PFW SS15 Highlights: Agnes B

    Agnes B SS15 epitomizes the essence of French style – elegance, well-made with quality fabrications. While other collections may have us dreaming, women will be wearing Agnes B.

  • PFW SS15 Highlights: Gaultier, Kenzo and Dior

    PFW SS15 Highlights: Gaultier, Kenzo and Dior

    PFW SS15 Highlights: Gaultier, Kenzo and Dior

    Jean-Paul Gaultier’s SS15 collection was truly magnificent and bittersweet as this is his final prêt-à-porter show. We bid aloha to one of the most original voices in the fashion world…

    The Kenzo SS15 venue was unique indeed as it took place at a skate park also designed by Humberto Leon and Carol Lim – a true testimony to sustainability as instead of getting torn down, this venue with be used by the kids in the local community.

    Even though I am a little taller than a hobbit, I would love to wear the extra wide denim pants from this collection!

    Christian Dior SS15 may have been inspired by the past but these clothes are definitely futuristic.

  • PFW SS15 Highlights: Lanvin, Rochas and Carven

    PFW SS15 Highlights: Lanvin, Rochas and Carven

    PFW SS15 Highlights: Lanvin, Rochas and Carven

    Alber Elbaz helped Lanvin celebrate their 125th anniversary with a collection dedicated to women of all ages and all types. As Elbaz states it is time to “…forget what’s the next trend-it is time to celebrate what is good now”. Bravo !

    Rochas SS15 was all about sheer layers but the gorgeous gold coat is the standout for me !

    The Carven SS15 collection was a combination of Paris flair with New York speed – this old house has learned some new tricks.

  • PFW SS15 Highlights: Anthony Vaccarello and Jacquemus

    PFW SS15 Highlights: Anthony Vaccarello and Jacquemus

    The Vaccarello SS15 woman exuded casual luxury with strong sensuality, in a collection that combined elements from yacht and urban wear. The result was a refreshing update to the staid Paris scene !

    The Jacquemus SS15 collection plunged traight into the heart of summer, with a feeling of a beach in Marseille. Wearing crisp white shirts worn off the shoulder over swimwear, and loose wide-legged trousers, the Jaqquemus coquette exuded happiness. Bravo !

  • PFW SS15 Highlights: Christine Phung and Cédric Charlier

    PFW SS15 Highlights: Christine Phung and Cédric Charlier

    Christine Phung’s SS15 collection celebrates her love of merging traditional designs with the latest in textiles. The result is a collection that is cool and chic.

    Well, well, well… It seems Paris has a new player among the ranks! Cédric Charlier’s SS15 triangular cut creations floated down the runway in delectable shades of blue, green and decadent black.